Chefs Across Generations: Geno Lee and Simms Powell

In Jackson, Mississippi, a fourth-generation restaurant owner and a 15-year-old culinary prodigy prove that passion for food knows no age—and their unexpected friendship reveals just how much they have in common.

Simms Powell and Geno Lee
Credit: Ron Blaylock

A Fourth-Generation Legacy at Big Apple Inn

Geno Lee is the fourth-generation owner of the iconic Big Apple Inn, while Simms Powell is a 15-year-old aspiring chef, gardener, forager, fisher, and naturalist. They are on two ends of the culinary spectrum, yet they speak the same language. Seeing them together, you'd think they had known each other forever. Both have an appreciation for a variety of foods, and they discovered another commonality with their shared Filipino heritage.

The Story Behind Jackson's Big Apple Inn

Geno's great-grandfather started the Big Apple Inn after arriving in Jackson from Mexico City in the 1930s, naming it after his favorite dance. There was an influx of Mexican labor to the area post slavery, but Juan "Big John" Mora wasn't built to pick cotton. Instead, he started selling his mother's hand-rolled tamales in downtown Jackson before opening his restaurant in 1939.

Geno Lee
Credit: Ron Blaylock

While Geno had no intention of getting into the restaurant business, his family ties are strong, so when his uncle, who managed the restaurant, became ill, Geno left his job as a stockbroker to join his dad, who had left his position as a school principal, to manage Big Apple Inn. Their only desire was to keep the 50-year-old restaurant going.

Famous Tamales and Pig Ear Sandwiches

Fast forward, and Geno is the longtime face of Big Apple Inn. "I can't retire," he laughs. "I have daughters! Plus, I love what I do too much. My grandfather rolled tamales until he was 90." The restaurant still serves those famous tamales, along with "smokes and ears," slider sandwiches made with either boiled and sliced pig ears or chopped Mississippi-made sausage. Both are served with slaw and mustard sauce. As though it's frozen in time, Big Apple Inn may be a bit worn inside, but that's how folks like it. The regulars believe it's perfect.

Meet Simms Powell: Jackson's Teenage Culinary Prodigy

Simms Powell (@tinychefsimms) is fascinated with the Big Apple Inn. His inquisitive nature and curiosity about food led him to try the pig ear sandwiches. "They were a delicious and unforgettable experience," he says.

Simms has been cooking since the age of four, and he's never shied away from unfamiliar ingredients. As a child, he wanted to touch all the produce in the supermarket. That has never changed.

Simms Powell
Credit: Ron Blaylock

The Future of Jackson's Culinary Scene

A student at Murrah High School and Wells APAC in Jackson, Simms says he aspires to keep cooking. "I want to continue exploring new cuisines. My dream is to open a small, seasonal restaurant using locally sourced ingredients." For now, he is exploring catering. "I love cooking for friends and family." Simms has cooked alongside local chefs Hunter Evans and Damien Cavicchi, and for celebrities including Ralph Macchio and Devon Sawa.

Geno says he is excited to see young people like Simms have a passion for the culinary arts. "It brings such excitement to me to watch Simms trying and cooking new foods."

This piece was originally published in our 2026 Jackson Tour Guide. The photos were shot on location at Sur La Table in Highland Village by Ron Blaylock.

Susan Marquez

Author

Susan Marquez

Susan is a contributing writer for Eat Drink Mississippi and Visit Jackson. She loves good food and good conversation, so writing about food comes naturally. She began writing professionally in 2001 and 2,800+ articles later, she is still writing. "Writing gives me an excuse to ask questions, and to learn more than what can be seen on the surface."