The Sweet Side of Savory: Sugar's Chef Donovan Barner
At Sugar's Place, fresh food isn't just a mandate—it is a way of life, and co-owner and chef, Donovan Barner, offers Jackson a taste of his childhood with a blue plate menu born of the classics his grandmother used to make.
Chef Barner says, "Growing up, when my grandma was cooking, I was always right there beside her. She inspired me, so I try to put a little bit of her in everything I do."
A Kitchen That Feels Like Home
Named for Chef Barner's grandmother, Sugar's Place feels casual and comfortable. The yellow walls, the collage of paintings, and the cooler full of fresh produce all make you feel as though you could be in your own grandmother's kitchen as you absorb the scent of fresh-fried chicken drifting from the back.
A capital city staple since 2008, Sugar's Place offers a standard menu of chicken and waffles, fried fish, salads, and more, but the real heroes of this story are Chef Barner's blue plate specials. From prime rib to baked chicken, Chef Barner saw a gap in the downtown area and filled it. According to Chef Barner, "Few places downtown offer a blue plate lunch. Depending on the day, we offer chicken tetrazzini, candied yams, collard greens, and a whole lot more."
Fresh Food Made With Love in Downtown Jackson
Ordering a three-tender plate with fries gave me the chance to try Chef Barner's famous chicken, and it was worth the wait. As I sat at a table, observing other patrons and curiously eyeing their food, I sipped a cup of red Kool-Aid (for the first time in over ten years), and it took me back to my childhood. A TV quietly played sports highlights as my name was called. I picked up my plate from the counter, and fresh was an understatement. The fried chicken was still sizzling, and the fries were crispy on the outside and soft and steaming on the inside. It was a simple lunch, but one made with a lot of love. Some things you can teach, and some things are taught from experience.
From Iron Horse Grill to Sugar's Place
It wasn't always easy for Chef Barner, but the road to Sugar's Place was paved with support from colleagues, friends, and family. As a bartender at the Country Club of Jackson and the catering manager for On The Border, Chef worked in kitchens and knew how to work with customers. However, Iron Horse Grill's Chef Pierre Pryer took a chance on him, hiring Barner as an assistant broiler cook. Chef Barner remembers the opportunity fondly, "He gave me my first opportunity at Iron Horse Grill, something I will always be grateful for. Now, I bring a piece of every opportunity I have ever had to Sugar's."
Family-Run Soul Food in the City of Soul
Chef Barner now partners with his family at Sugar's, as his mother is the co-owner and catering manager, and three of Chef's sons also work at the restaurant. This family-owned business serves fresh, homestyle food to downtowners on lunch breaks and at events with over 200 people across the Jackson Metro, offering true soul food in the City of Soul.
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Soul Food — Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner + Saturday Brunch
168 W. Griffith St.
Jackson, Mississippi 39201
(601) 352-2364
Website
Sugar's Place / Sugar's Catering168 W. Griffith St.
Jackson, Mississippi 39201